Author Archive | Evan Sheline

Fixing a bathtub with a 3d printer

Hey y’all, Evan here! *gasp* yes I know I haven’t posted in forever, I’ll try to be better! I’ve actually started my own freelance product design and engineering consulting company at, which has been keeping me very busy, but hopefully this will also lead to some more crossover posts.  As you might have seen in “office saga continues“, I’ve setup a home office that is very much still in progress but I’ll get working on an update posts with lots of fun things in it such as a custom standing desk, new shelves, and other storage solutions.

For now I thought I would dip my toe back into blogging with how my 3d printer totally saved us. Now to add a qualifying remark here: 3d printing is awesome and you should totally get a printer but it really is only useful if you have 3d modeling skills or are up for learning the programs you need to make 3d printed parts.

For ours I went with a fused filament fabrication (FFF) 3d printer (there are so many types out there but most consumer ones use are FFF) from Lulzbot called the TAZ.

lulzbot-taz So to get into the problem, the hot water handle on our bath tub broke… Not an easy to replace part either. It was the stem coming from the valve that broke in half. No good way to get a good picture of it so I found this illustration online that will help:

Two-handle_faucets  (source unfortunately unknown and unattributed)

Now to replace the stem I would have to replace the valve itself, which was underneath the frame of the bathtub and completely inaccessible without tearing up our slate tiles (not at all an appealing idea). I noticed however that the stem that broke off was actually threaded! Using my nut and bolt thread checker (must have tool in my opinion, so good) I found out that the threads were M6-1.0.


This lead to the temporary solution below of a bolt and hex key as a make shift handle:


Not at all pretty but it got me thinking of printing an adapter between the bolt and the handle… Using my calipers I measured the broken off stem and modeled it in Solidworks (but plenty of other cheaper/free 3d modeling software out there).


simple-adapter 61yJDhVX39L._SL1000_

To strengthen the print I added a hex key down the shaft and then glued it together with cyanoacrylate (typical “super glue”) with a kicker. Now I really never understood how great super glue could be until I used it with the kicker/accelerant/insta-cure. Usually you have to find a way to hold two objects in compression for 10 minutes, then 24 hours for full cure. Most of what I’ve tried gluing together are not easy to hold without movement while maintaining compression. This kicker allows for setting in just seconds though. You can put super glue on one side and the kicker on the other or just spray the kicker on top and BOOM you got a good solid connection. I also didn’t know recently that there was a super glue debonder. Great for when you glue your fingers together and don’t want to rip the skin. Or you know, to debond your actual parts. It stinks and is super strong, but works well! Anywho, back to the project…


Using this little guy allowed me to connect to the original handle!

ezgif-1363390562 Success!!!

ezgif-2331949995 I know this post may be a little technical and not applicable to those without 3d printers but I wanted to share a nice little successful project with y’all. Let me know what you think about these types of posts!

Note: This post contains affiliated links. Thank you for supporting our blog!


DIY Simple Side Table

Evan here again! So for a while, I hate to admit it, we were using my old TV tray as a side table. Hey. It fit. But it was not a good long term solution for two picky DIY artists. By this time (back in 2013 actually, sorry for such a late update!), I had gotten my woodworking confidence up, but I had not done any major projects with woodworking yet. So let me share my first one with you:

DIY simple side table -

Muuuch better, right? This journey was not the smoothest… At first I was inspired by this pallet I found:


It seems like they are all the rage in the DIY community. I must have had really bad luck. This was some super heavy duty super nailed together super pallet. But not super good for getting good wood from. I really did try. Then I put it in the scrap pile and went to Home Depot.


Got some nice real wood (no plywood for my first big project!) All the same width. All I needed to do was cut them to length and start joining!


This was before I had more toys tools in my arsenal garage, so I made do with some scrap wood to help me cut. Prooobably not recommended. A table saw would have been muuuuch better. Now that I have one (a shoutout of thanks to my brother and sister in law here for hooking me up for our wedding (yes, this project was that long ago)) I know how awesome it is.

DIY simple side table -

Once cut to size (measure, measure, measure, cut) I did a test fit! Looks good so far. I went with a nice basic shape (a blocky A?). To join them I drilled holes and glued in dowels! If I were to do this again, I would have used screws and counter-bores then capped them with tiny lengths of dowels on top (picture below sums it up better). I used dowels instead of just screws so that the entire outside of the side table would be wood (say that 5 times fast… wait, I just did it too and it’s not that hard, please ignore).


But this was my first project so I just went for it.


Not the prettiest work but that is why I bought wood filler.


Katelyn helped me out with joining them all together with the dowels and glue (and therefore we didn’t get too many pictures of the process). But I did get this gem:


Once everything was joined it was time to liberally apply wood filler.

DIY simple side table -

When it all started to look awesome is actually when I took the sander to the side table. It started to feel like a finished product. All the rough edges or mismatches were worn away and it came together into one piece.

DIY simple side table -

And if sanding is when it started to look finished, staining is when it really DID look finished. This might be the most satisfying step because there is such a large change for fairly low effort. I’ve adopted the wipe on, wipe off method. Get the stain on the wood and wipe it off right away.


Since this was going to be a piece of furniture we would use regularly and possibly with drinks/spills/condensation, I went ahead and sealed it too.

DIY simple side table -

Hope this post helps people at the beginning of their DIY adventure like I was to jump in and try their hand at something new, or get a more experienced hand out into their workshop again :)


DIY Photobooth

OMG Evan’s back too?! Yes my dear readers. Search now works again (oops) and I’ve tuned up the website’s inner workings. Oh and I have an awesome project to share!

One of my big wedding responsibilities was to make a photobooth. We did a lot of research into DIY vs rent. Rentals were quite expensive (around $600-$1200) and DIY range from $0 on up depending on how much you already have. On the easy side there was: setup your computer with its web cam and use some photobooth like app. On the hard side there were custom circuitry with fancy triggers and printers etc. I knew I could not live with myself (being an engineer and IT nerd) if I went with a computer that you pressed the spacebar on. But I also knew time would be limited and I could not delve too far into coding and wiring.

So I came up with my own in between. Most digital cameras now have some sort of digital output (usually micro HDMI). When hooked up to a monitor the camera can display pictures that have been taken, or (and more interestingly for this project) it can show whatever the camera is seeing! On my camera the HDMI out was hidden on the bottom near the batter (that top port in the picture below).

DIY Photobooth-

The best part of a photobooth is people seeing themselves before the photo and being silly! Since my camera has that output all I needed to do was point the camera one way, have a monitor facing the same way, then throw in a remote and watch the chaos. And there was literally chaos. You’ll see in the end (though that was mainly the props’ fault, not my photobooth). In order to make everything pretty though I had to build a box to hide the technology. Went to Home Depot and bought 2 pieces of plywood and found some spare 2×4’s in the attic. Found a flush mount monitor kit on amazon and a spare computer monitor in a closet. I started with the main front face (where the monitor would be attached facing the photo-takers).

DIY Photobooth-

Added 2x4s to the back of the front face for structural support (you can see where I screwed them in along each side in the photo below). Then started to attach my monitor mount.

DIY Photobooth-

I had to add some 2x4s on the back for the mount to attach to.

DIY Photobooth-

Dropped the monitor in for a fit test. So far so good!

DIY Photobooth-

I wanted the camera to be above the monitor because pictures from above are more attractive (or so my wife tells me). I bought a little swivel that I could mount into the wood, so I put another 2×4 at the right height for that. Here is where my previously unmentioned planning came into play. I actually did measure my monitor and camera to make sure everything would fit on the front panel. From there it was a bit of improv as the project went on though :P For this build I had the overall shape in my head but determining all the lengths, angles, heights etc ahead of time didn’t seem necessary for something that would most likely be used a few tines. I would add each element off of the previous and measure everything to fit together as I went.

DIY Photobooth-

I wanted the whole back panel to open on hinges so that the camera would be easily accessible and the whole thing would be easy to assemble and break down. A quick trip to Home Depot and we found these cabinet hinges that worked out well.

DIY Photobooth-

Also note in the picture below, my handheld cordless screwdriver. It is amazing and I totally recommend it to any DIYers out there that work with wood/ hang curtains/ assemble things/ etc/ basically every DIY project lol.

DIY Photobooth-

For the sides I just pressed a sheet of plywood against it’s current shape. Traced the lines. Measured in by the width of the sheet, then cut!

DIY Photobooth-

To cut the hole I needed for my camera lens, I used my Milwaukee hole cutting set. A bit on the pricey side but they are AMAZING! Plus I love the case as I’m a have-a-place-for-it-or-loose-it guy. Except Katelyn helps a ton with that :)


Peek a boo! Eye see you.

Basic setup from the inside:

DIY Photobooth-

For a more finished look we used our favorite Minwax dark walnut wood stain. Super easy way to unite all the wood in a piece and make it look a lot more finished. Of course we didn’t get pictures of this though :P But I use an old rag or t-shirt and wipe the stain on and off and it is super fast. I also usually wear rubber gloves too bc that stain works on skin too.

DIY Photobooth-

We tested out the height that it assembled at and with the table we were going to use we thought it was better to be a little higher up (tested the increased height with an improvised booster), so I whipped up a quick stand to raise it up (then we stained that too!).

DIY Photobooth-

Almost all finished, but moving it around was a little troublesome. No grips on the sides.

DIY Photobooth-

Another Home Depot trip fixed that though:

DIY Photobooth-

Dropped a power strip in the back and ended up tying everything down and organizing it but this will get the idea across:

DIY Photobooth-

In this picture you can also see the hole I cut in the middle to feed out the power and video cables to the monitor.

Of course during this we had to take a whole bunch of pictures. Thankfully google plus stitched some together into a gif for us.

DIY Photobooth-

The little black thing you can kinda see in my hand was the bluetooth remote. Below Katelyn is holding it after we secured it to the booth with some baker’s twine.

DIY Photobooth-

We ended up getting over 500 pictures from the booth at our wedding!

DIY Photobooth-

Remember that aforementioned chaos? Something about photo booths. And when you throw in props and the ability to fit in so many people? Extra chaos. But the good kind :)

DIY Photobooth-

Note: This post contains affiliated links. Thank you for supporting our blog!

We’re Experiencing Technical Awesomeness

Hey guys, Evan’s back! I recently noticed that I’ve been lacking a bit on my technical duties around the website and thought it was about time for some technical upgrades. Hopefully the changes will make reading, searching, sharing, etc, a more pleasant experience. Being the observant reader you are I’m sure you’ve notices some of them already…

Old way to share share:

We're Experiencing Technical Awesomeness

New way to share (and yes, I did pick the most popular of our posts to screenshot hehe):

We're Experiencing Technical Awesomeness

We’ve long been annoyed about how our search performs. Honestly we’ve gone to Google search before using our own search. NO MORE! I’ve upgraded the search algorithms and settings and now they work great. Go ahead, try it. Wait, wait, then come back here, I still got more cool things coming!

Having our archives in a little drop down box is not that exciting…

We're Experiencing Technical Awesomeness

But having it in picture form all pretty like is hopefully much more enjoyable…

We're Experiencing Technical Awesomeness

Hopefully that little upgrade will make going back and finding your favorite post much easier and enjoyable! We’ve also moved the access to the archive from the sidebar where it was hidden to the top menu where we can show it off with pride ^_^. Also that smiley face I really like (^_^) looks like he has a mole when you put a period after it hehe.

We’re also trying out a feature that shows up at the end of each post and suggests others you might like. Seeing this makes Katelyn realize she needs to work on making her titles shorter… haha!

We're Experiencing Technical Awesomeness

Katelyn also worked her coding magic to make our comments look prettier! The nice light teal is so much easier on the eyes than the default yellow/tan yeckhhh!

We're Experiencing Technical Awesomeness

And Katelyn gave us a new picture on the top of the sidebar from our L.O.V.E. post yesterday. Still obsessing over how cool the finished product is!


I also did some more technical upgrades that are totally boring. Upgrading the behind the scenes framework and automating our sitemap submissions, etc aren’t flashy. But hopefully it will drive some more traffic here which would be good news for everyone. Growing our little community will encourage more comments and more posts from us! We for sure aren’t going to stop here though so expect more little surprises as things go on! Thanks for sticking with us as we figure this all out!


Attic Prep Part 6- Vent Chutes

This is part 6 of the prep work we did to get everything ready to blow GreenFiber cellulose insulation in our attic. At the bottom of this post we have a link to every post in this series if you want to check out the whole shebang :)

After we finished cleaning our attic, getting the wires/cables in order, making the map, fixing the exhaust vent, and re-stapling up the old insulation, we were finally able to get to one of the essential prep-work items all the tutorials talk about- adding vent chutes.

Vent chutes, also called soffit baffles or air chutes, are these styrofoam or cardboard covers that you put at each soffit vent to block blown insulation from clogging it and to guide the air coming in from your soffits up and over the insulation. This helps keep your attic ventilation in order: if you have insufficient ventilation, your attic gets hotter than it’s supposed to and all that insulation you added has to work against much more heat.


Vent chutes are also fun to pose with.

Attic Prep Part 6- Vent Chutes-

Did you notice the ninja Mochi in the above picture? I know I can kinda be distracting so if you did, go you! And yes, woot! This is Evan again. Hi.

Attic Prep Part 6- Vent Chutes-

But back to business. Some things you’ll for sure need to install these things

  1. hard hat (nails poke through the roof from the shingles… and bumping into them hurts)
  2. staple gun
  3. long poking device (we used a garden hoe, pictured above)
  4. vent chutes
  5. some boards to lay on (I chopped some to length for easier carrying)
  6. good breathing mask
  7. head light
  8. eye protection
  9. gloves, long sleeves, and long pants to keep insulation off your skin

To find where your soffit vents are, go outside and look at the edge of your roofline anywhere there is an overhang. You’ll see the outside of your soffit vents from there, so make a mental note of how many there are. Then go into the attic when it’s light outside and turn the lights off. You should be able to see daylight filtering in where you found the vents outside, where the roofline meets the attic floor. If a vent is currently blocked by insulation you won’t see light, which is why it’s good you counted them from the outside already.

Attic Prep Part 6- Vent Chutes-

You’ll want to start by clearing a way as much existing insulation as you can. I used a garden hoe for this; getting it all with my hands would have been hard even for my long-armed self. Make as much room for the chutes as possible because they are flimsy and it is hard to push them past insulation below and nails sticking in from above (these are the things that cause the most trouble).

Attic Prep Part 6- Vent Chutes-

The best method I developed (took me three tries) is after you’ve cleared a path, put your long poking device inside the vent chute (between it and the ceiling) and push down to hold it away from the roof. This way you can guide the chute past the protruding nails.

Once you have the chute in place it is time to staple!

Attic Prep Part 6- Vent Chutes-

No real secrets I’ve found here. Just make sure you have a staple gun you can shoot with one hand. This would have been very difficult (or impossible) if I had to use both hands to shoot it. Try to press with your body and leverage your weight to push instead of your fingers if you can. It recommends doing a staple every 4 inches or so. Do the best you can, and then use your garden hoe again to press the insulation (the excess you pulled out in the beginning) back against the bottom of the chute. This will help hold the base of it against the roof (where it’s harder to reach your staple gun).

Attic Prep Part 6- Vent Chutes-

You might end up at some odd angles, and you will DEFINITELY end up incredibly sweaty, but it really does not take too too long to install these very necessary items.

Attic Prep Part 6- Vent Chutes-

Psst – To see the whole process from start to finish, check out our other posts! You can see our overall plan for blowing insulation, and check out all the prep in Part 1, Part 2, Part 3, Part 4, Part 5, Part 7, Part 8Part 9, and the actual blowing of insulation. Big project!

Note: This post contains affiliated links. Thank you for supporting our blog!


DIY-ing Can Swing Both Ways

… just like our shower door. But more on that later.

It’s Evan again! Sorry for the long absence from the blog, but Katelyn has been an doing an awesome job writing about our adventures in the meantime. I’m here with just a quick update on a DIY project that came up a little short.

Sometimes it’s the little details that get you. It started with a quick fix idea I had for our shower. See… the door leaks water out every time we use it. Probably because there are huge gaps all around our nice thick glass swinging door.

DIY-ing Can Swing Both Ways-

I went to the amazing amazon and got a door sweepdoor gap closer (technical terms here only), and some fancy tape to keep it water-tight.

To start with I had to trim these polycarbonate strips to length. Note: you should really practice cutting them a few times before the final one. The good news is that they come way longer than the length you need (ours arrived in a tube twice the size of Katelyn). I used my jig saw to cut them. You could also use a little hacksaw if you wanted though.

DIY-ing Can Swing Both Ways-

As you can see I clamped it down since I do not have three hands (one to hold the jig saw and two to hold either end).

DIY-ing Can Swing Both Ways-

Mine came out a little rough so I sanded the ends down:

DIY-ing Can Swing Both Ways-

Once cut to length it is easy to slip them on the shower door (you just have to make sure you get the right width plastic guards so that they are snug but still slide on).

DIY-ing Can Swing Both Ways-

 Good news: I tested out the shower and the guards protected against the water leaking out!

DIY-ing Can Swing Both Ways-

Look! No puddles on this side of the door!

Now for the bad news. Remember when I mentioned that our door swings both ways? And that it is heavy? When it swings closed, it does so with such momentum and force that it hits the plastic water guard and shakes both glass panes so hard I worry for their mountings! So… success and failure. The plan worked great but it was a little (well… kinda a huge) detail that literally STOPPED the project from being a success. Not sure where we are going to go from here. We can either take the guard off and have a leaky shower or keep it on and always have to remember to gently shut the door behind us. Or there could be a third solution out there. Slow down the door swing somehow? Stop the leaks another way? Have any suggestions? Keep checking back with us and hopefully we’ll revisit this conundrum later.


DIY Attic Air Duct Protector/Bridge

When you buy a house you’ve gotta take the good with the bad. We already love this house but it needs some TLC. One thing I had to fix before it got worse was our air duct. It was in bad shape already, but even worse, every time somebody had to get to the attic above the kitchen they had to crawl over the already damaged air duct. This is the shape it was in when we got it:


The duct is bent and collapsing in on itself and there are tears/holes in the tape patching it up because the only way to get across currently is to do this:


Not ideal. Especially with the electrician and plumber coming in a few days, who both need access to the other side of our attic- they could end up damaging the duct even further. Time to use some of those engineering skills!! I decided to design and build a bridge that would protect the duct when people needed to get to the other side. I could not help getting fancy and planning it in my 3d program:


Since I haven’t been able to get my garage fully stocked with power tools… yet… I got some help cutting boards from Home Depot. We chose the pink boards (get Katelyn’s hint in our previous post now?) because they were the cheapest and because cosmetics weren’t exactly at the top of our priority list with this project.


When you get the boards home no need to cut, you can just start assembly! I started by building the legs that I would secure to studs in the attic on either side of the duct.


I used L brackets in the corners for added stability. They were pricier than the wood itself, but definitely worth it to make our bridge structurally sound. Here you can see the legs for both sides of the duct, with the L brackets on the inner corners.


Up in the attic, I started by securing a long support board to the studs in the attic floor along the front side of the duct. Then I used more L Brackets to secure one set of legs to the support board.


Then I carefully crawled over and did the same thing to the other side. Once the legs were in place, I nailed 7 boards across the top of both legs to make the top of our bridge.


I had to add some additional support because it wobbled some when I tested it out. I used some extra scrap wood and cut 45 degree angles on both ends and screwed it into the legs and base support (see picture below). I pre-drilled pilot holes to make those 2.5″ screws go in easier and prevent the heads from stripping.


Nearing completion:


I added similar supports to the legs at the back of the duct as well.


All done! Now anyone who needs to can get around our attic without damaging our air duct anymore.


Not sure if you can see it in the picture above but I also used a power sander to make sure the edges were smooth and splinter free. Also please note the face mask which you NEED if you’re going to be in the attic for more than 1 minute. Trust me.

Here is the budget breakdown:

  • 7x 2″x4″x92″ studs at $1.87 – total of $13.09
  • 8x Framing Anchor (L brackets) at $2.57 – total of $20.56
  • Lots of 2-1/2″ nails ~ $0.20
  • Lots of 2-1/2″ wood screws ~ $0.40
  • Sandpaper ~ $0.50


  • Hammer
  • Drill
  • Facemask
  • Oscillating sander (optional)

Makin’ Loooooove… part 2 {DIY Marquee Letters}

(Continued from part 1) There are a ton of great toys you can use for this next step… I mean… power tools… I used my jig saw. It’s a great wood/everything cutting power tool when you’re living in an apartment and don’t have a garage to store big toys. Soon to be fixed ^_^ (I’m sure there will be a post with a handyman garage setup).

DIY Marquee Letters-

Since we traced the letters in the previous post cutting them out was pretty easy. Remember, don’t push too hard or the edges will be rough and require more sanding. If you are unfamiliar with using a jig saw I would practice on some spare lumber. Also, since we bought our lumber before hand we planned the height of the letters so they would not require any cutting on the top and bottom. Before you know it you’ll have a masterly crafted letter in your hands:

DIY Marquee Letters-

Letters like the L are pretty easy to cut. No hard to reach corners. But when tight corners do arise don’t loose hope. Again, get some extra lumber and test to see how tight corners you can cut with whatever power tools you are using. With my jig saw I ended up doing a gradual turn and then backtracking to get that straight edge I wanted:

DIY Marquee Letters-

Before you know it you’ll have all your letters cut out! Good thing we remembered to take a picture when we were all done and not just partially so!!… not.

DIY Marquee Letters-

Whatever could we be spelling?! Live?!… umm can’t think of anything else but the other live… and love :)

Next we roll out the template again and gently hammer a nail in (somewhat of an oxymoron). Just nail it partially in to mark where you’ll be drilling later:

DIY Marquee Letters-

For the lights that we mentioned earlier a 13/16″ spade drill bit worked PERFECTLY! Just barely lets the light socket through. Make sure to measure a properly sized hole if you aren’t using our same lights. Run to your fav hardware store and pick up a your fav type of hole drill and have at it!

DIY Marquee Letters-

Follow the pattern you laid out earlier with your gentle nailing and you’ll do swell! Lay out your letters and admire your handiwork:

DIY Marquee Letters-

After you’ve made all the holes for your light bulbs, you’re gonna want to sand things down a bit. Because the plywood we got was pre-sanded, this part was pretty easy. We just did a few gentle swipes along the face of the letters and focused mainly on the edges using 220 grit sand paper.

Next came my favorite part… staining!! This was the first time we stained anything and it was awesome. Now we want to stain ALL THE THINGS! Before you go all stain crazy on your letters though, I’d recommend testing the stain on some scrap wood first. Again, we used Minwax stain in “Dark Walnut” (because we loved how it look on some projects over at Young House Love!)

DIY Marquee Letters-

We tested how the stain looked after sitting for 1 minute, 2 minutes, 5 minutes, and 10 minutes. When each section was done, we wiped things down with a clean old T-shirt. The visual difference between the stain times was pretty subtle so we decided to go with 1 minute. Hey, we are impatient!

DIY Marquee Letters-

Now it’s time to go to town on the letters! Make sure to wipe them down to get rid of dust and stuff first. Also, work somewhere well-ventilated. For us that meant our wittle teeny apartment balcony. Gotta work with what you’ve got! Also, remember to lay down a dropcloth or something to catch any drips. I read online that you’re supposed to apply the stain with the grain, so that’s what we did. The internet said so, so it must be true!

DIY Marquee Letters-

We didn’t worry too much about our edges because they won’t show once we add our metal sides. Also, by the time our minute of staining time was up almost all the stain was absorbed by the wood, but we still wiped off the little bit of excess with a clean old T-shirt.

Literally like 5 minutes later, we were done! Of course, you know we also had to pop some light bulbs in and test how they looked with the stained wood. One step closer to marquee-style letters for our wedding!

DIY Marquee Letters-

PS- Check out part 1: making the template, and part 3: attaching the metal siding for the full tutorial of this project! :D

Note: This post contains affiliated links. Thank you for supporting our blog!
DIY Marquee Letters-

Planning a Home Renovation

It’s a great feeling to be able to use the skills I’ve developed in school and at work for something helpful at home. I was able to use my favorite 3d computer-aided-design (CAD) software to mock up our new house with some measurements I found on some previous inspections… and my imagination.

3D Model of Our Home-


Now I can imagine you asking me why this is at all helpful to anyone that does not have access to SolidWorks to plan out their house. But thankfully there is a free alternative in Google Sketchup! Sketchup was recently bought up and rebranded by Trimble Buildings but thankfully cnet still has the Google version available for download. You can download Trimble’s version here and Google’s version here. There is even a whole library of 3d models that you can load in like couches, TV’s, entertainment centers, etc.

Some people might also be wondering WHY?! Partially just because. But I actually started this little side project because we needed accurate square footage estimates for pulling up tile and buying flooring. With SolidWorks that info is a couple clicks away (Note- that is why I added the dividing line you can see between some rooms, that way when you select a surface for info you get the room you want not the whole floor). Plus you can plan what furniture you might want to buy and or fit into your new house.

Excited to get the keys to our home and get to work! We’ve got tile and carpet to remove and walls to paint!