Author Archive | Katelyn Sheline

DIY 2×4 Side Table

We made this side table out of 2x4s for less than $9, which we think is pretty dang cool! We did it as part of the Modern Maker #two2x4challenge and it was definitely a challenge! You could make this table with other types of wood and the steps will be easier (2x4s tend to warp and pine is soft), but the cheap material allowed us to experiment with some joinery techniques we’d never done before. We learned a lot and shared lots of little tidbits (and failures!) in the video.

[Before we keep going, I want to pause and say if you have a sec it would mean SO much to us if you’d subscribe to our channel or share our video. We’re new to YouTube, so every view, like, and sub makes a huge difference for us. Thank you!]

DIY 2x4 side table for just $9 - Evan & Katelyn

We’ve included free plans that have a cut list and measurements. The video and this post will go into more details, but the plans are a great reference for the nitty gritty numbers. 

Here’s what you’ll need:

Materials:

Tools:

DIY 2x4 side table for just $9 - Evan & Katelyn

Squaring & the 2x4s

We started by giving our 2×4’s a nice square edge on all sides. The rounded edges they come with make it difficult to get a finished looking end product.

DIY 2x4 side table for just $9 - Evan & Katelyn We ran the top and bottom of them through the planer.

DIY 2x4 side table for just $9 - Evan & Katelyn Then we ran the left and right sides through the table saw, and then through the planer.

DIY 2x4 side table for just $9 - Evan & Katelyn We did this before cutting them to length because we thought that would make all our boards more consistent, but it was a little unwieldy running 10-ft boards through a table saw. So it might be easier to cut them first (leaving extra length that you can trim off later).

Cutting & making panels

After squaring them up, we cut the 2x4s to length for our top panel, shelf, and legs on our miter saw. You can find the lengths and cut list in the plans we linked to earlier.

DIY 2x4 side table for just $9 - Evan & Katelyn Everything got 10 degree miters: The legs are angled at 10 degrees, which means their ends need a 10 degree cut; and the shelf buts up against the legs so it therefore needs a 10 degree cut too. Technically, you could cut the top panel at 90 degrees but we thought 10 degrees would look nice, so that one is purely aesthetic.

DIY 2x4 side table for just $9 - Evan & Katelyn DIY 2x4 side table for just $9 - Evan & Katelyn Next we glued up the panels for our top piece and our shelf piece. We used Titebond Original wood glue here and Bessey clamps. We also have a little silicone brush that is awesome for applying the glue. We let these set overnight.

DIY 2x4 side table for just $9 - Evan & Katelyn DIY 2x4 side table for just $9 - Evan & Katelyn DIY 2x4 side table for just $9 - Evan & Katelyn Then we ran our two panels through the planer one more time to level out any unevenness from our glue up.

DIY 2x4 side table for just $9 - Evan & Katelyn Unfortunately, we got some snipe on the ends, which is when your board isn’t in contact with both rollers at the same time and the planer cuts the ends a little deeper.

DIY 2x4 side table for just $9 - Evan & Katelyn

We fixed this by running it through again and again with sacrificial boards in front of and behind it until we got rid of the snipe.

DIY 2x4 side table for just $9 - Evan & Katelyn

Cutting dados

This part was a little tricky since we’ve never cut dados before. We angled our table saw blade to 10 degrees and raised the blade so it would cut about halfway through the thickness of our boards. There are dados in a few different places: two in the underside of the tabletop for the legs to go into, and one on the inside of each leg for the shelf to sit in.

We started with the tabletop. We measured where the outside of each dado needed to be and made marks at those points. We started our cuts there and worked our way inward.

DIY 2x4 side table for just $9 - Evan & Katelyn We thought we’d widen our dado a little bit at a time and test fit the legs with each pass as we got close.

DIY 2x4 side table for just $9 - Evan & Katelyn DIY 2x4 side table for just $9 - Evan & Katelyn We tried to be careful, but we still cut our first dado a hair too big. Womp.

DIY 2x4 side table for just $9 - Evan & Katelyn We cut new legs for that side and it ended up being fine (you can’t visibly tell a difference in the leg thickness), but we did learn to stop a little early with our cuts. An extra snug fit is ok, and you can use a wood mallet to pound the wood into place if it’s tight. Luckily, our second dado under the tabletop was fine.

We tried to be careful, but we still cut our first dado a hair too big. Womp. Next we cut a dado on the inside of each leg. We actually did all the legs together to make sure the dados were consistent. We again used the method of marking where the dados needed to start and working our way down little by little.

DIY 2x4 side table for just $9 - Evan & Katelyn DIY 2x4 side table for just $9 - Evan & Katelyn To clean up our dados, we used a router with a ½” diameter dovetail bit and a chisel. The bit got the flat surfaces really well, and the chisel helped clean the corners (plus it was super satisfying).

DIY 2x4 side table for just $9 - Evan & Katelyn DIY 2x4 side table for just $9 - Evan & Katelyn

Assembly

With our dados cut, it was time to assemble. This table is put together with just wood glue, no screws involved. Unfortunately, when we started to assemble it we realized our shelf panel had warped a little.

DIY 2x4 side table for just $9 - Evan & Katelyn 2x4s are prone to warping, so if you use nicer wood you hopefully won’t have to worry about this happening as much. Luckily we were able to force it into place during our dry fit assembly.

However, it took us about 15 minutes to pound everything into place with that warped shelf, and our glue (Titebond III) has a set time of 10 minutes, so we literally had to race the clock for this assembly. If you don’t have any warping it won’t be as much of an issue.

DIY 2x4 side table for just $9 - Evan & Katelyn All the pieces need to be assembled simultaneously. We applied glue to our dados, roughly put the legs where they need to be in the tabletop dados, sat the shelf in the leg dados, and used a mallet to inch everything into place. We clamped everything together and let the glue dry overnight.

DIY 2x4 side table for just $9 - Evan & Katelyn DIY 2x4 side table for just $9 - Evan & Katelyn

Finishing

The next day, we unclamped our piece and gave the whole thing a good sanding using a random orbit sander for the large surfaces and sanding blocks to get into harder to reach spots.

DIY 2x4 side table for just $9 - Evan & Katelyn DIY 2x4 side table for just $9 - Evan & Katelyn Then we used wood filler at each joint to fill in any gaps we couldn’t close before the glue set. We let it dry and sanded it off.

DIY 2x4 side table for just $9 - Evan & Katelyn DIY 2x4 side table for just $9 - Evan & Katelyn Next we gave it two coats of shellac and sanded lightly with 600 grit sandpaper between coats. If you are too heavy handed with the sanding or use too low of a grit, you’ll sand the shellac right off.

DIY 2x4 side table for just $9 - Evan & Katelyn DIY 2x4 side table for just $9 - Evan & Katelyn DIY 2x4 side table for just $9 - Evan & Katelyn After the shellac, we gave it a coat of Briwax, which we then buffed off by placing a microfiber rag between our random orbit sander and the table. The finish came out reeeeally nice. It’s got some shine but isn’t overly shiny, and it feels super smooth.

DIY 2x4 side table for just $9 - Evan & Katelyn DIY 2x4 side table for just $9 - Evan & Katelyn DIY 2x4 side table for just $9 - Evan & Katelyn

Done!

We love how this side table turned out! Like we said earlier, this build would probably be easier with nicer, more expensive wood, but this was a great challenge and the cheap material really allowed us to experiment with some new techniques. Please let us know if you have any questions about this build. Thanks!

DIY 2x4 side table for just $9 - Evan & Katelyn DIY 2x4 side table for just $9 - Evan & Katelyn DIY 2x4 side table for just $9 - Evan & Katelyn DIY 2x4 side table for just $9 - Evan & Katelyn

………………………………………………………………

You can also find us at:

YouTube…………….. https://www.youtube.com/evanandkatelyn
Instagram………….. http://instagram.com/evanandkatelyn @evanandkatelyn
Instructables………. https://www.instructables.com/member/evanandkatelyn/
Facebook………..….. https://www.facebook.com/evanandkatelyn/

………………………………………………………………

Note: This post contains affiliate links. Thank you for supporting us!

0

3D Printed Deer Head for Casey Neistat

Today’s project is a little different. It’s something we made not for our own house, but as a gift. It’s something that isn’t like most of the projects we post because it’s not really a tutorial exactly. BUT it’s something we feel strongly about and are excited to share, so let’s get into it :)

We made a 3D printed deer head for Casey Neistat!

3D printed deer head for Caset Neistat - Evan & Katelyn So if you know what we do, and you know what Casey does, this might seem kinda random. The content we have on our channels doesn’t have much overlap. But if it wasn’t for Casey… we might not even have a channel. 

In the video below, we explain what we mean, but in a nutshell: We’ve always loved DIYing and sharing what we do, but Casey inspired us to take it to the next level by starting a YouTube channel and devoting as much time and energy as we have to building our passion into something more. This deer head design was, in a way, the kick off point of us taking what we do from just a hobby to something more, so it’s very special to us and we wanted to share it. Hope you like it Casey :)

[Before we keep going, I want to pause and say if you have a second it would mean SO much to us if you’d like our video or subscribe to our channel. Since we’re brand new to YouTube, every view, like, and subscription makes a huge difference for us. Click here to see the whole channel. Thank youuuuu! We’re doing a big goofy happy dance right now!]

Now, I’ll try to cover the steps we took to make this deer but there will be a few things that won’t be possible unless you have 3D printer access. So feel free to read along if your’e curious about any of the steps, or watch the video above if you just wanna see the process in action.

Making the backing

First things first, we had to find some pallet wood for the backing. We went to a tiny local hardware store in the area to see if they had some pallets we could take off their hands.

3D printed deer head for Caset Neistat - Evan & Katelyn We’ve never salvaged pallet wood before (which is kinda a DIYer right-of-passage, right?) so we were excited to get our hands on this. We went for salvaged wood over new lumber because we wanted it to have a bit more wear and tear, and not look so perfect.

3D printed deer head for Caset Neistat - Evan & Katelyn We used our reciprocating saw to cut the ends of the wood  from the ends of the pallet, and pried off the nails from the middle of the pallet.

3D printed deer head for Caset Neistat - Evan & Katelyn 3D printed deer head for Caset Neistat - Evan & Katelyn Then we joined three pallet boards using our Kreg jig.

3D printed deer head for Caset Neistat - Evan & Katelyn And once they were joined, we cut off a little bit from each end on the miter saw so that the top and bottom were even

3D printed deer head for Caset Neistat - Evan & Katelyn 3D printed deer head for Caset Neistat - Evan & Katelyn

Printing the deer

Meanwhile we started 3D printing a big deer head. We designed this guy a while back (modeled in MODO) and sell smaller version on Etsy and at West Elm stores here in Texas (like I said, it’s really the first project that kicked off this adventure), but we wanted something slightly larger with some more oomph. So Evan got to work making the design even bigger (mainly in SolidWorks).

3D printed deer head for Caset Neistat - Evan & Katelyn After a few failed prints, we got Fred to handle the larger deer size (Fred is our new printer, if you follow us on Insta you’ve met him before) and he came out beautifully. We’re still trying to fine tune Simplify 3d (the software that tells the printer what to do) and getting the supports to stick is sometimes an issue.

3D printed deer head for Caset Neistat - Evan & Katelyn He was printed in three different pieces, meaning we had to join those pieces. Evan designed him with holes at each connection point so that we could attach the pieces with dowels and super glue.

3D printed deer head for Caset Neistat - Evan & Katelyn We may have initially put the wrong antler on the wrong side, and we may have panicked a little, but he’s good now :)

3D printed deer head for Caset Neistat - Evan & Katelyn 3D printed deer head for Caset Neistat - Evan & Katelyn Then we had quite a bit of surface area to smooth out. 3D prints are often printed with supports that you break off when the print is finished. Breaking off the supports leaves a rough patch. So we smooth those out with a combination of a soldering iron and coats of automotive primer (sounds weird if you haven’t worked with 3D prints before, but it does the trick!)

3D printed deer head for Caset Neistat - Evan & Katelyn After the rounds of priming and soldering, we spray painted him a dark gunmetal color.

3D printed deer head for Caset Neistat - Evan & Katelyn

Painting

Next we painted the backing. The goal was to do something colorful with a bit of a street art vibe. First we spray painted the same gun metal gray we used on the deer on the top and bottom of the pallet to give it even more of a weathered look.

3D printed deer head for Caset Neistat - Evan & Katelyn Without waiting for it to dry, we started adding strokes of acrylic paint in layers upon layers. We used about ten different colors.

3D printed deer head for Caset Neistat - Evan & Katelyn 3D printed deer head for Caset Neistat - Evan & Katelyn 3D printed deer head for Caset Neistat - Evan & Katelyn We also added a little 3D printed touch: Casey’s tattoo DO MORE. We glued the 3D printed text over the paint.

3D printed deer head for Caset Neistat - Evan & Katelyn 3D printed deer head for Caset Neistat - Evan & Katelyn Lastly, I had to hide a little YouTube icon in the details. This is Casey after all.

3D printed deer head for Caset Neistat - Evan & Katelyn

Assembly

Lastly we drilled a hole through the backing and mounted the deer.

3D printed deer head for Caset Neistat - Evan & Katelyn Here’s the finished product y’all!

3D printed deer head for Caset Neistat - Evan & Katelyn 3D printed deer head for Caset Neistat - Evan & Katelyn 3D printed deer head for Caset Neistat - Evan & Katelyn Of course, we also had to figure out a way to mail this guy from Texas to New York. We bought the most economical box we could that was double walled and big enough for the deer. Turns out “most economical” means “most awkwardly sized” so we actually got this big thing and cut it down to a smaller size

3D printed deer head for Caset Neistat - Evan & Katelyn 3D printed deer head for Caset Neistat - Evan & Katelyn Of course, we had to make the box our own. Couldn’t help but doodle on it.

3D printed deer head for Caset Neistat - Evan & Katelyn Then we shed a few sweaty, happy tears, said our goodbyes and mailed him off. Hope he makes it to NY ok. Hope Casey likes him. If we’re lucky, maybe we’ll get to see him again on Mail Time :)

3D printed deer head for Caset Neistat - Evan & Katelyn If you wanna see him on Mail Time too… make sure to let Casey know! Please send him the video link on Twitter @CaseyNeistat. Casey is one of our biggest creative inspirations and it would mean so much to us knowing that our gift made it to him. Thank you!!

Tools and materials

If you’re trying to tackle a similar project, we wanted to still include the tools and materials we used. Here goes!

………………………………………………………………

You can also find us at:

YouTube…………….. https://www.youtube.com/evanandkatelyn
Instagram………….. http://instagram.com/evanandkatelyn @evanandkatelyn
Instructables………. https://www.instructables.com/member/evanandkatelyn/
Facebook………..….. https://www.facebook.com/evanandkatelyn/

………………………………………………………………

Note: This post contains affiliate links. Thank you for supporting us!

 

0

DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post

A while back we built a horizontal cat scratching post/pad and shared it on the blog. Mochi did use it, but the downside is she still clawed our couch too. Womp.

So we built a modern vertical cat scratching post that slides over the arm of our couch, hoping that giving her something vertical to pull on will spare our couch from further damage. And so far, she’s using it!!! Yay!!! Bonus, this thing also acts as a wooden couch sleeve to set your drink on. Double yay!!

Of course, we documented the whole build on video so if you’d like to see the action in video form check it out!

[Before we keep going, I want to pause and say if you have a second it would mean SO much to us if you’d like our video or subscribe to our channel. Since we’re brand new to YouTube, every view, like, and subscription makes a huge difference for us. Click here to see the whole channel. Thank youuuuu! We’re doing a big goofy happy dance right now!]

Tools & materials

Before I get into this build, I’ll preface it by saying we used a lot of tools on this simply because we had them at the ready, but you don’t need everything we used. So I’m gonna put the must-have tools at the top of the list, and additional stuff we used below.

DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com Must-have tools/materials

Additional tools/materials we used (helpful, but not 100% necessary)

Step 1: Measure & cut the 2 vertical pieces

This scratching post is made of three pieces. To start, we’re going to find the measurements we need for our two vertical pieces (numbers 1 and 2 below). All the measurements for this build will depend on your couch.

DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com Because couch arms can be rounded, grab a scrap piece of wood, or anything flat really, and place it across the top of the couch arm, making sure it’s level. Then measure the distance between the floor and the underside of the scrap piece.

DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com

This measurement is going to be the length of your longer vertical wood piece that goes on the outside of your couch arm.

https://www.youtube.com/user/EvanAndKatelyn

Next, slide the yardstick between the arm of your couch and the cushion until it hits the base of your couch under the cushion.

DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com

This measurement is going to be the length of your shorter vertical wood piece that goes on the inside of your couch arm.

DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com

We used these two measurements to cut two pieces from our 10×1 on the miter saw. You could definitely use a circular saw instead though, or heck even a jig saw or hand saw.

DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com

On the shorter piece, we also added a slight taper by cutting an angle on our miter saw so that it would slide between the cushions more easily. It’s optional, but it does help.

DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com

Step 2: Pocket holes

Next we drilled pocket holes. If you don’t have a kreg jig don’t worry, you can just screw perpendicularly through the boards with wood screws later to attach them (don’t do it til after you’ve attached your sisal though. We’ll cover that part later). If you want to try the kreg jig but aren’t sure how to use it, here is a great tutorial on it.

We drilled these at the top of both vertical pieces, on the inside part that will be facing the couch arm. We’ll use them to attach the top piece later.

DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com

Step 3: Attach the sisal

Next we wrapped the longer vertical board (the one on out outside of the couch arm) with thick 3/8″ diameter sisal rope. We used most of this 100 foot roll which is pretty crazy. DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com Because it’s so thick, we had to wrap the board first before we could get an accurate measurement of how wide our top piece needs to be.

DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com

We attached the sisal in such a way that if she really goes to town on it and at some point we need to replace it, we can easily do so. First we drilled a hole at one end of our longer piece of wood.

DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com

Tape the end of the sisal and thread it through the hole so that the taped end is on the pocket hole side of your board.

DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com We secured the sisal by screwing through it and into the wood. First drill a small pilot hole, making sure to NOT go all the way through the wood.

DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com Then screw through the taped end of the sisal and into the pilot hole. Make sure you use a small enough screw that won’t go all the way through your board (we used #8 x 3/4” wood screws).

DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com Next we rounded out our edges with the router and ⅛” radius roundover bit. Eventually we are going to round pretty much every edge except those that are joined together, but for now we just rounded out the edges of the piece that will have the sisal because we wanted to do it before we wrapped it.

DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com As we started, we realized we should have rounded these edges BEFORE we attached the sisal because it actually got in the way of the router. So we had to detach it, round the edges, and then reattach it.

DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com After reattaching the sisal, we got started wrapping it tightly around the board. It helps to have a buddy for this part because our arms actually got surprisingly tired haha.

DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com We attached the end of the sisal the same way we started it, by drilling a hole through the wood, threading through the sisal, and screwing it to the board on the pocket hole side of the wood (the same side we screwed the starting end to)

DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com

DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com

Step 4: Measure & cut the top piece

Next we are going to measure out and cut our top piece of wood.

DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com First we put the two vertical pieces in place.

DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com We made sure they were level, then measured the distance between the outside edge of each board.

DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com We cut that length on the miter saw, but again, use whatever saw you’ve got.

DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com Before attaching the top piece, we rounded the corners of the rest of our edges. Like I mentioned before, we wanted to round out everything but the edges that we would join together.

Step 5: Sand & smooth

DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com Then we sanded out surfaces so that everything was smooth because it’s a lot easier to do before everything is assembled. We used the random orbit sander on the large surfaces and hand sanded it with a sanding block on the edges.

DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com

Step 6: Attach everything

We used right angle clamps to keep the boards as square as we could before attaching them. In the picture below, we’re attaching the top piece to the shorter vertical piece

DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com We screwed through our pocket holes using pocket hole screws. If you didn’t do pocket holes, this is where you could screw wood screws perpendicularly through the boards.

DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com When it came time to attach the long vertical wood piece, the dang sisal was in the way again so we had to get creative with some additional clamps and scrap wood in order to clamp the boards at a right angle. But we figured it out and screwed through those pocket holes as well.

DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com Yay, all attached!

DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com

Step 7: Finishing

Next we rounded out the corners of our top piece so that they matched up with the rounded corners of our side pieces. You can see in this picture where some edges are still sharp, and some are already rounded.

DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com

Then we rounded the rest of the top piece. You could potentially do all the edge rounding at once, we just thought it was easier to do it as we went.

DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com We noticed there were a couple slight gaps where our pieces joined together. So we filled them with sanding dust from our sander and some glue. This is a great alternative to wood putty, and it’s guaranteed to match the color of your wood. Add more dust if you need to, and sand it to finish.

DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com A trick to get your cat interested in the scratching post is to spray it with catnip spray. It’s sorta cheating… but it works! We also like to scratch on it with our hands to help show her what it’s for.

DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com

If all your measurements were correct (cross your fingers!) this should slide right over your couch arm.

DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com She’s spotted it…

DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com She actually likes it!!! Eeeeeeep!!

DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com We definitely like this new scratching post more than our old one. It feels a little more finished looking, and we don’t have to worry about stubbing our toes (although we’ll still hold onto the old one for a while)

DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com

Hope she continues to like and use it! Please, Mochi, please use it, for the sake of our couch…

DIY Modern Cat Scratching Post - evanandkatelyn.com

………………………………………………………………

You can also find us at:

YouTube…………….. https://www.youtube.com/evanandkatelyn
Instagram………….. http://instagram.com/evanandkatelyn @evanandkatelyn
Instructables………. https://www.instructables.com/member/evanandkatelyn/
Facebook………..….. https://www.facebook.com/evanandkatelyn/

………………………………………………………………

Note: This post contains affiliate links. Thank you for supporting us!

0

Wandel vs Heisz push stick comparison

We’ve been doing more and more woodworking over the past year, and our arsenal of tools and equipment has grown steadily. We’ve always been pretty safety conscious (thanks to Evan, who always has to remind me to put on my eye/ear protection, respirator, etc) but with the increased dangerous-equipment-usage, we’ve been feeling the need to up our safety game even more. Enter the Push Sticks.

[Before we keep going, I want to pause and say if you have a second it would mean SO much to us if you’d like our video or subscribe to our channel. Since we’re brand new to YouTube, every view, like, and subscription makes a huge difference for us. Click here to see the whole channel. Thank youuuuu! We’re doing a big goofy happy dance right now!]

Basically, a push stick is a tool you use when you’re working on a table saw to be able to a) keep your hands farther from the spinning blade of doom, and b) give yourself more control to safely maneuver a piece of wood through said spinning blade of doom. There are two common styles out there that were popularized by Matthias Wandel and John Heisz, so we made each of those versions and tried them for ourselves.

The Wandel version is based around the idea of using two long-handled push sticks. You hold them pretty far back, which keeps your hands quite far from the blade. One is used to push the wood forward, and one is used to hold it from the side and keep it straight. Because of how you hold each of them, you tend to stand a little more to the side which means you’re less likely to get hit if there’s a kick back.

 Wandel vs Heisz push stick comparison - evanandkatelyn.com

The Heisz version is designed in a way that applies forward and downward pressure at the same time so that you have solid control of the wood without having to apply as much force yourself (meaning you’re less likely to fall forward toward the blade). It also has a log of surface area that touches the wood and feels like it gives you great control.

 Wandel vs Heisz push stick comparison - evanandkatelyn.com

Here’s what you’ll need:

Step 1: Print, cut, and glue template

The first step was to download the templates. We printed them out, roughly cut around their shapes, and glued them to the wood.

 Wandel vs Heisz push stick comparison - evanandkatelyn.com  Wandel vs Heisz push stick comparison - evanandkatelyn.com

Step 2: Cut out push sticks

We cut out our push sticks on our band saw, but you could do it using a jig saw as well. The band saw gives you a little more control though, so if you’ve already got one, that’s what we’d recommenD.

 Wandel vs Heisz push stick comparison - evanandkatelyn.com  Wandel vs Heisz push stick comparison - evanandkatelyn.com

Step 3: smoothing and sanding

This step is optional. We decided to round out our sharp edges (and imperfections because yours truly got a little carried away on the band saw) using a 1/8″ roundover bit. This mainly gave us some smoother to hold onto. We also sanded these to get them even smoother, plus sanding removed any paper we couldn’t pull off and the remaining glue residue.

 Wandel vs Heisz push stick comparison - evanandkatelyn.com  Wandel vs Heisz push stick comparison - evanandkatelyn.com  Wandel vs Heisz push stick comparison - evanandkatelyn.com  Wandel vs Heisz push stick comparison - evanandkatelyn.com Done!

And that’s it! These guys are super easy to make. But I know what you’re all wondering… which one did we end up liking better?

First we tested the Heisz version…

 Wandel vs Heisz push stick comparison - evanandkatelyn.com Then we tested the Wandel version…

 Wandel vs Heisz push stick comparison - evanandkatelyn.com And our favorite is… the Wandel push stick! We ultimately chose it because we felt less scared using it, which is a totally personal perception. But you could push the board farther without having to get close to the blade at all, which was nice, and having that secondary stick to help guide the wood made us feel a little bit more in control.

 Wandel vs Heisz push stick comparison - evanandkatelyn.com With the Heisz version, we had to reach our arms over the blade to push the wood all the way through, which we weren’t crazy about. Although we DID like how much more surface area of the push stick was in contact with the wood using the Heisz push stick.

 Wandel vs Heisz push stick comparison - evanandkatelyn.com In the end… I think we’re actually going to try and make our own, using what we liked from each design. Stay tuned for a video and post covering that soon!

Note: This post contains affiliate links. Thank you for supporting our blog!

 

 

 

 

0

Living room mood board – I wish!

Spring (aka it’s all of a sudden 85 degrees down in Texas) has us imagining changes around here! Full room makeovers may not be in the cards for us right now, but I recently started helping a friend put together a mood board for her living room (hi Lisa!) and it made me think – what would our dream living room look like? It’s been so long since we did ours, how has our style changed? *dives deeply into the Pinterest rabbit hole*

I’ve actually only put together a legit mood board ONCE (and I don’t even think we shared it on the blog). Ironically, I’m prettttyyy sure it was for our living room haha. (Which I’m realizing now I really need to share again because the post I linked to up there is years old. Wow.) Anyway, I’m excited today to share what our ideal space would look like! Who knows, maybe this will spur a few changes around here :) Natural modern living room - evanandkatelyn.com

My overall thoughts

So I’ll walk ya through why I chose what I chose in the hopes that maybe it’ll get your brains turning too. Overall, I wanted to go for something that had modern vibes and clean lines (the couch, coffee table, lamp, art) but with lots of natural materials/textures (woven rug and baskets, leather couch, plants) to warm it up and a little whimsy thrown in (marquee letters, fun pillows).

Art ledge

I’ll start at the top. I’ve been wanting to do an art ledge for-like-ever. I’m obsessed with the one made by Chris and Julia. You can buy these, but check out their tutorial for a super easy DIY walk through. I’m thinking a dark walnut one would be gorgeous. Speaking of C & T, also fell in love with the large tree rings print from Minted they hung on their dark shiplap wall. That piece because the starting point for the art ledge. I went with black and white to give the space contrast but also be a neutral backdrop for the color I wanted to bring in elsewhere. Our current living room art is super colorful, which I loved for a long time, but I’m craving more neutral pieces up on my walls now.

Natural modern living room - evanandkatelyn.com
01. Visionary print

02. Sum Total print

03. Tree Rings print

04. Staredown print

05. News Flash print

06. Art ledge – tutorial here

Couch, furniture, plants

I wanted to go neutral and natural with the furniture pieces. We LOVE our Lounge sectional, which is an L shape, but something U shaped is oh so appealing (PS this one is from Arhaus and I’m kinda loving how sizable and sturdy their living room furniture looks. Like it’s not gonna blow away and you could probably jump on it without worry haha). I wanted other furniture pieces that were a little more delicate (but also sizable!) to balance the big sectional, so I went with the gold coffee table and gold standing lamp, which tie into each other. Plus I wanted a glass coffee table so you could see the pretty rug underneath. I also had to throw in a couple plants… both faux because I have a black thumb, but of course if you can keep a plant alive go for something living! I also loved the tiny wood vase on the coffee table plant, and the big basket is one I already own and luh-uh-uhv.

Natural modern living room - evanandkatelyn.com

 

07. Faux fiddle leaf fig

08. Dune three-piece sectional

09. Gold tripod floor lamp

10. Large curved basket

11. Gold and glass coffee table

12. Faux eucalyptus plant

Pillows, marquee letters, chair

This… is my favorite little section of the mood board. I wanted some fun and whimsy in the pillows. That winking one had me at hello ;) (Bonus- it’s embroidered, not printed, which gives it a little extra texture!). I also love how the boho style pink and red pillow ties into the rug without being too matchy matchy, and the gold spotted pillow ties in with the coffee table and lamp (it’s embroidered too!). The marquee letters we made for our wedding… those are part of our ideal living room no matter what. They were our first big DIY project and we’re still obsessed with them. And that handsome leather chair is pretty much the best of all worlds – modern, warm, and some masculinity to balance the pillows.

Natural modern living room - evanandkatelyn.com

13. Agda printed yarn pillow

14. Dot embroidered throw pillow

15. Winky embroidered throw pillow

16. Marquee letters – check out our tutorial here

17. Axel leather armchair

Rugs

I love the layered rug look. Love. I’ve had googly eyes for Persian rugs ever since we got a few little ones for the house. This big one has my name all over it. It’s a bit more expensive than I would normally pay… but this is a dream moodboard right? Plus to balance it, the jute rug underneath is super reasonably priced (and huge!). So it all evens out right? Natural modern living room - evanandkatelyn.com

18. Hand-woven natural area rug (11×15)

19. Persian rug (9’9″ x 13)

Hope you guys found this mood board helpful! Any other styles or rooms you’d be interested in seeing? Let us know below or on Insta (@evanandkatelyn)

Not gonna lie – a) had a ton of fun making this, b) I want to immediately buy everything in this room now, and c) was kinda hesitant to publish because now I know somebody else is gonna snag that rug.

………………………………………………………………

You can also find us at:

YouTube…………….. https://www.youtube.com/evanandkatelyn
Instagram………….. http://instagram.com/evanandkatelyn @evanandkatelyn
Instructables………. https://www.instructables.com/member/evanandkatelyn/
Facebook………..….. https://www.facebook.com/evanandkatelyn/

………………………………………………………………

Note: This post contains affiliate links. Thank you for supporting us!

0

DIY easy concrete letters

We are kinda sorta obsessed with these little concrete letters. Mainly because a) they’re really easy to DIY because there’s no mold-making required, and b) leaving messages around the house is kinda awesome.

DIY easy concrete letters using baking molds! evanandkatelyn.com DIY easy concrete letters using baking molds! evanandkatelyn.com DIY easy concrete letters using baking molds! evanandkatelyn.com Hehehehehe.

So today we’re gonna walk through this quick tutorial. And after this you’ll be looking around your house for other stuff you can pour concrete into (it’s kind of addicting).

You can watch the video that covers everything below, or keep scrolling for all our choices, steps, and tips in blog-format.

[Before we keep going, I want to pause and say if you have a second it would mean SO much to us if you’d like our video or subscribe to our channel. Since we’re brand new to YouTube, every view, like, and subscription makes a huge difference for us. Click here to see the whole channel. Thank youuuuu! We’re doing a big goofy happy dance right now!]

Here’s what you’ll need for the project

  • Quikrete Vinyl Concrete Patcher
  • Small mixing container (you could use something like this or even a solo cup works if you’re just doing a few letters)
  • Stirring and scooping devices (we use an old ladle to scoop dry concrete mix, a metal rod to mix it, and a plastic spoon to scoop it into the letters. But chances are, you’ve got something on hand already that will work)
  • Silicone letter baking mold
  • Gloves (we really like the thick 9 mil gloves)
  • Mask
  • Plywood or some sort of board (it protects your work surface and makes it easier to get concrete to settle into your mold – we’ll get into that later)
  • Concrete sealer (optional)
  • Paint or spray paint (optional, but we used gold Krylon)

DIY easy concrete letters using baking molds! evanandkatelyn.com If you’ve watched any concrete tutorials before, you may notice we’re using a sliiiightly different product from the norm. This was a choice we made for a few reasons:

  1. It has a really fine grain so the ending surface finish is really nice – no big lumps or rocks
  2. It fills into more detailed shapes more easily than some concretes
  3. Bonus – it comes in a smaller batch than most concrete mixes, which is nice

DIY easy concrete letters using baking molds! evanandkatelyn.com Before you start, place plywood (or anything else similarly stiff and board-like) over your work surface. This not only protects your table from the potential mess, but it’s also gonna help you agitate the mold too (don’t worry, we’ll get into that later).

Make sure you have your PPE (personal protective equipment on) before you start handling the concrete mix. Portland cement is very basic (opposite of acidic), and has crystalline silica dust (which is really bad for your lungs). If you get cement on your hands and leave it there it can cause minor chemical burns and draws out moisture from your skin. If you do get cement on your hands, no worries. Wash with water, then pour common white vinegar over the area to neutralize any alkalinity, then wash with water again.

Start by adding a small amount of water to your mixing container. It’s important to add water to the container first before adding any mix. We started with about 50 ml but ended up adding more later.

DIY easy concrete letters using baking molds! evanandkatelyn.com Then add a few ladles of mix. The Quikrete instructions say to use 7 parts concrete mix to 1 part water, but for this project we found that to be too dry. We added a splash or two more water (a little goes a long way!) and kept mixing.

DIY easy concrete letters using baking molds! evanandkatelyn.com DIY easy concrete letters using baking molds! evanandkatelyn.com DIY easy concrete letters using baking molds! evanandkatelyn.com Side note, adding more water DOES weaken the concrete slightly. Which you definitely wouldn’t want if you were making anything that needed to be structurally sound or hold weight. But for this small decorative items, the slightly wetter concrete is so much easier to work with so we think it’s worth it (we’ve made a ton of these by the way – no breaks so far)

It’s easy to add too much water though. So here’s a tip to check and see if you have too much. Agitate the mixing container, and excess water will rise to the surface. We do this by quickly hitting the insides of the walls of the container back and forth with our stirring stick (you can see this better in the video).

DIY easy concrete letters using baking molds! evanandkatelyn.com This should cause extra water, if there is any, to rise to the surface. If you see water pooling a little at the top, add a little more concrete mix, stir it around, and agitate the container again to test for more water.

DIY easy concrete letters using baking molds! evanandkatelyn.com Once there’s not more excess water and your concrete is about the consistency of a sandy milkshake (I know, sounds so appetizing), you’re good to go. (In total, you’ll need to mix for 2-3 minutes to make sure everything is incorporated).

DIY easy concrete letters using baking molds! evanandkatelyn.com Once your mixed concrete is ready, spoon it into the letters of the mold that you want to make. Heads up – some letters don’t stand up on their own too well (like P and F for example, which are asymmetrical and top heavy) but that doesn’t mean you can’t still use them (see our “POOP” example above…. hmm that’s something I never foresaw myself saying).

DIY easy concrete letters using baking molds! evanandkatelyn.com You’ll want to overfill the letters a little. The concrete will settle down into the mold.

DIY easy concrete letters using baking molds! evanandkatelyn.com Now you need to agitate the mold to get out any air bubbles. This is where the plywood comes in handy. We like to shake and drop the plywood with the mold on top of it, since the plywood is a lot sturdier to grab onto than a silicone mold full of wet concrete. You can still agitate the mold itself by scooting it quickly side to side, but I wouldn’t pick it up or anything. Again, this is easier to visualize in video format.

DIY easy concrete letters using baking molds! evanandkatelyn.com You’ll see the bubbles rise to the surface. You can pop them with whatever stirrer or scooper you have on hand, then give the mold another good shake to see if any more come up.

DIY easy concrete letters using baking molds! evanandkatelyn.com Honestly, we kinda like the look of a few bubbles… it adds some interest. But you don’t want a ton or it’ll be a weaker end product.

Scrape off any excess concrete off the top (we used a popsicle stick, but again whatever you have around is fine, just something with a flat edge). You can give it one last shake which should smooth out your scraped-off surface.

DIY easy concrete letters using baking molds! evanandkatelyn.com Then… you just have to wait. These take about 24 hours to dry.

DIY easy concrete letters using baking molds! evanandkatelyn.com Before we take them out of the mold, you have the option to apply a concrete sealer to the backs of them (the side you can see when they’re still in the mold).

DIY easy concrete letters using baking molds! evanandkatelyn.com This step is totally optional, but this side of the letters tends to be a little dusty and the sealer will help lessen the dust. Since we do a lot of stuff in concrete, we already had the sealer, but if you don’t want to buy it just for this purpose your letters will be fine.

DIY easy concrete letters using baking molds! evanandkatelyn.com If you do want to use it, apply a thin coat and let it dry for about an hour (we’ve done half an hour… but if you want to play it safe, wait the full hour). Then you can remove your letters, yay!

DIY easy concrete letters using baking molds! evanandkatelyn.com The back edge might be a little rough, so chip off any rough edges with your finger.

DIY easy concrete letters using baking molds! evanandkatelyn.com I know the last thing you want to hear is that you need to do any more waiting… but you have to do a little more waiting. 24 more hours to be exact. They continue to cure once they’re out of the mold because air is able to reach areas that were previously encased. You can see the difference between a freshly de-molded set of letters and one that is fully cured in the photo below.

Keep them on a surface that can be messy, like your plywood from earlier or simply sitting on top of the molds. If you put these on something absorbent, they’ll leave moisture spots.

DIY easy concrete letters using baking molds! evanandkatelyn.com Ok… after your long week of waiting, you can finally use these suckers! They’re super cute as is but there are tons of creative ways to paint them too. I love love love giving them a metallic ombre look.

DIY easy concrete letters using baking molds! evanandkatelyn.com To do this, put on a glove (so you don’t spray your fingers) and hold the top of the letter, spraying the bottom half with your spray paint of choice. I try to spray about 8 inches away. The farther you spray, the more of a fade your ombre will have. Vice versa, the closer you spray the less fade you’ll have. You can test it on some scrap wood, cardboard, piece of junk mail, etc.

DIY easy concrete letters using baking molds! evanandkatelyn.com Other ideas we love are giving it a dipped look by painting the bottom third with gold leaf paint or crisp white acrylic, but I feel like you could experiment with lots of different techniques and styles. If you end up making these, take a photo of what you did and tag us @evanandkatelyn on Instagram because we would LOVE to see what y’all come up with!

And lastly, if you like the look of these but actually messing with concrete is not your thing, you can also buy these on our Etsy. We sell the LOVE as a set, but shoot us a message and we can make whatever letters you want. Like your home state…

DIY easy concrete letters using baking molds! evanandkatelyn.com Favorite food…

DIY easy concrete letters using baking molds! evanandkatelyn.com Or spirit animal.

DIY easy concrete letters using baking molds! evanandkatelyn.com ………………………………………………………………

You can also find us at:

YouTube…………….. https://www.youtube.com/evanandkatelyn
Instagram………….. http://instagram.com/evanandkatelyn @evanandkatelyn
Instructables………. https://www.instructables.com/member/evanandkatelyn/
Facebook………..….. https://www.facebook.com/evanandkatelyn/

………………………………………………………………

Note: This post contains affiliate links. Thank you for supporting us!

3

Simple DIY cutting board

We’ve been wanting to get into hardwoods lately. We’ve done some “light” woodworking in the past (like this simple side table we made or our DIY marquee letters), but we’ve always just used whatever cheap wood we could find at Home Depot.

Don’t get me wrong – there is a lot you can do with inexpensive framing lumber, plywood, etc, and we will continue to use it I’m sure. But for this project, we needed to get our hands on something a little more specific/fancy/drool-worthy.

Enter the DIY cutting board. Our excuse to get our hands on something really really nice.

DIY Solid Wood Cutting Board - evanandkatelyn.com DIY Solid Wood Cutting Board - evanandkatelyn.com

You can watch the video that covers everything below, or keep scrolling for all our choices, steps, and tips in blog-format.

[Before we keep going, I want to pause and say if you have a second it would mean SO much to us if you’d like our video or subscribe to our channel. Since we’re brand new to YouTube, every view, like, and subscription makes a huge difference for us. Click here to see the whole channel. Thank youuuuu! We’re doing a big goofy happy dance right now!]

We originally wanted to make these cutting boards as gifts and/or to sell on our Etsy shop, but we liked them so much we couldn’t help but turn this into a tutorial too.

So pretty much as soon as we could, we found the closest lumberyard and got our butts over there. Side note, we realized that lumberyards are often closed on weekends and evenings, so if you work full time like we do you might want to check their hours before you drive all the way over there *cough* learn from our mistakes *cough*.

DIY Solid Wood Cutting Board - evanandkatelyn.com (sorry about the bad selfie quality!)

Walking in, we had a “a whole new wooorrrld” moment. It was amazing, we could have stayed there all day. Literally, they had to politely ask us to to make our purchase and head out because they were closing. But enough about our lumberyard adventure, let’s get to the real meat of this tutorial.

Here’s what you’ll need

Side note, we’ll be making a face grain cutting board, which is often the prettiest and easiest, but is not the most durable option. We will be making another tutorial for an edge grain or end grain cutting board soon though which are more durable but more difficult to make, so keep your eye out.

Wood selection is key in this project. There are a few different things you need to look for when choosing it. It needs to be:

  • Durable
  • Food safe
  • Close grained

DIY Solid Wood Cutting Board - evanandkatelyn.com Some good options we came across in our research are maple, cherry, and walnut. Maple is on the cheaper end, so we started with that (note: we’ve since gone back and made another out of walnut too and it’s preeeety).

DIY Solid Wood Cutting Board - evanandkatelyn.com When picking your board, check for damage and flatness/straightness. Damage is pretty obvious, just know that even little imperfections that might be ok in other projects will cause you extra headache on this cutting board, like little dinks in the wood or a cool knot.

DIY Solid Wood Cutting Board - evanandkatelyn.com A good way to quickly check for flatness is to look down the length of the board at a steep angle and see if it still looks straight. The steep angle amplifies any changes in the straightness. If it looks bendy or wavy at all, see if you can find a straighter piece.

DIY Solid Wood Cutting Board - evanandkatelyn.com DIY Solid Wood Cutting Board - evanandkatelyn.com We ended up choosing an 8-inch wide piece of hard maple. Feeling pretty fancy after dropping more than $10 on a piece of wood, we got kicked out went home to get started.

First, we cut our board to about 16 inches long using our miter saw. The length (and width) are really up to you, but we thought the 8”x16” size looked good.

DIY Solid Wood Cutting Board - evanandkatelyn.com We also decided to cut off one corner to add some visual interest, but again, totally optional. We just liked the look of it.

DIY Solid Wood Cutting Board - evanandkatelyn.com Then we marked where our hole would be drilled. The hole can be used for hanging the cutting board, and it also adds even more visual interest. We marked the center of our corner cut, and made a mark about 1 inch inward from the center (we used a combination square). That mark became the center of our hole.

DIY Solid Wood Cutting Board - evanandkatelyn.com DIY Solid Wood Cutting Board - evanandkatelyn.com We used a drill press with a 1-⅛” hole saw to cut the hole. Make sure to not drill all the way through from one side of our board. This could damage the grains on the other side. Instead, just as the tip of the drill exits the wood, stop drilling, flip the board, and continue drilling from the other side, using the tiny hole you made with the tip of the drill as your guide.

DIY Solid Wood Cutting Board - evanandkatelyn.com DIY Solid Wood Cutting Board - evanandkatelyn.com DIY Solid Wood Cutting Board - evanandkatelyn.com Woooo, that’s all the cuts you need to make! Pretty simple right?

DIY Solid Wood Cutting Board - evanandkatelyn.com Now it’s time to make it smooth and pretty. First, sand top side, bottom side, and outer edges with a random orbit sander using 220 grit sandpaper. I spent some time on the edges of the 45 degree cut to round the sharp edge. Don’t worry about the 90 degree corners, we’ll handle those later.

DIY Solid Wood Cutting Board - evanandkatelyn.com DIY Solid Wood Cutting Board - evanandkatelyn.com Then use a router with a ⅛” radius roundover bit to take the corners from a sharp edge to a round edge. This bit is a game changer! I never thought about how much of a difference having that rounded edge made.

DIY Solid Wood Cutting Board - evanandkatelyn.com I also rounded over the 90 degree corners with this. It makes the finished product look extra nice because all the corners will have the exact same radius.

DIY Solid Wood Cutting Board - evanandkatelyn.com DIY Solid Wood Cutting Board - evanandkatelyn.com Next, we hand sanded our newly rounded corners and the inside of our hole with some 220-320 grit sandpaper. We found that sanding a higher quality hardwood is much easier and quicker than something like pine, that gets more splintered when you cut it.

DIY Solid Wood Cutting Board - evanandkatelyn.com DIY Solid Wood Cutting Board - evanandkatelyn.com Final step – oil your wood! Make sure to get the outside edges and inside the hanging hole too. We are in love with Natchez Solution wood oil, it’s the same stuff we’ve been using on the butcher block dining table we DIY’d a few months ago. It’s got mineral oil, lemon oil, and beeswax.

DIY Solid Wood Cutting Board - evanandkatelyn.com DIY Solid Wood Cutting Board - evanandkatelyn.com After waiting 24 hours, your cutting board is ready to be used! Cutting on it for the first time was a little nerve-racking, I’ll admit. It was so pretty and perfect I didn’t want to mess it up. But I’m happy to report that it works and washes up well! A few light knife marks and no staining so far.

DIY Solid Wood Cutting Board - evanandkatelyn.com Hope you guys like this tutorial! If you want one of these cutting boards but not sure if you want to tackle the project yourself, we actually sell them too! You can find them in a few different wood options on our Etsy shop.

DIY Solid Wood Cutting Board - evanandkatelyn.com DIY Solid Wood Cutting Board - evanandkatelyn.com

………………………………………………………………

You can also find us at:

YouTube…………….. https://www.youtube.com/evanandkatelyn
Instagram………….. http://instagram.com/evanandkatelyn @evanandkatelyn
Instructables………. https://www.instructables.com/member/evanandkatelyn/
Facebook………..….. https://www.facebook.com/evanandkatelyn/

………………………………………………………………

Note: This post contains affiliate links. Thank you for supporting us!

2

Garage storage ideas

In our last garage post (and video) we covered part 1 of our garage series: how we patched, repaired, and painted our very sad looking walls.

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com In today’s post, we’re covering how we turned that clean slate into something actually functional too. The goal: to be able to use this space as a workshop AND still be able to pull both of our cars in. We took it from this:

DIY garage storage solutions and organization - evanandkatelyn.com To this! Holy crap!!

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com You can watch the video that covers everything below, or keep scrolling for all our choices, steps, and tips in blog-format.

[Before we keep going, I want to pause and say if you have a second it would mean SO much to us if you’d like our video or subscribe to our channel. Since we’re brand new to YouTube, every view, like, and subscription makes a huge difference for us. Click here to see the whole channel. Thank youuuuu! We’re doing a big goofy happy dance right now!]

And now, all the details and unattractive photos you’ve been waiting for. As you saw in the video, this is where we started…
So the challenge is that we were asking a lot from our little garage. We’re asking it to house two cars, have all the functionality we need for our DIY projects, and act as a workshop for making products. Oh yeah, and be organized and look nice while you’re at it.

When we bought the house, we actually did inherit a decent amount of storage. It was just… not how we would have done it.

There were some pegboards, but they had been cut up and placed around three different spots that didn’t all make sense. For instance, the right side of our garage has a step that gives us a few feet of space between our cars and the wall, so it would be perfect for something that required more space, like shelving. But a big pegboard, which sits more flush against the wall, was taking up half of that wall. And since we had extra space in front of it (and no room anywhere else), stuff always ended up getting piled there. Plus, these pegboards weren’t in the best of shape. They had lots of gouges, unusable holes, and so on.

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com We inherited some ok shelves too, but the shelves were on brackets that were screwed into drywall (instead of studs) so we couldn’t put too much weight on them. Also, the ones on the left side of our garage made it hard for Evan, who parks on the left, to get out of his car without hitting something, so placement wasn’t always great.

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com The garage also came sporting some old cabinets and a wire rack, which we planned on sprucing up and continuing to use.

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com In addition to these bits and pieces of storage, we’ve added our own over the years. We have a big Uline shelving unit for heavy and big things (if you squint your eyes you can see it behind the wood, cords, and bike).

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com We bought a small tool storage/work table when we first moved in that we very quickly outgrew.

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com So then recently we built a giant rolling work table that better suited our needs, but took up a lot of space.

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com And we built a rolling wood cart to hold extra scrap wood (see it to the right of the work table?).

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com So I guess what I’m trying to say is… we have a lot of tools and project materials and general garage-y stuff, so we have a lot of storage to try and corral that stuff, but then the storage units themselves just end up being more stuff to take up space. We knew something had to change.

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com STEP 1: Declutter garage (and fix the walls while we’re at it)

We got rid of as many things as possible. This included a bunch of stuff we never used, plus the storage we decided to ditch. We Craigslisted the black tool table and ripped off the old shelving and pegboards.

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com Then, as y’all know from our last post/video [LINK], we pulled everything away from the walls so we could patch, repair, and paint them, giving ourselves a clean slate to move forward.

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com STEP 2: New pegboards

Pegboards are pretty much a garage staple in our minds. Even though we got rid of our old ones, new ones were first on our list of things to buy. You might view pegboards as sort of a basic item without much variance between one and another, which honestly is kinda how I felt before this project, but then we found these:

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com Wall Control pegboards. They’re made of steel, they come in modular panels, they have built-in stand off, they’re incredibly sturdy, and they are just about as pretty as pegboards can be. (Side note, no, they are not sponsors, we just LOVE these things).

Here’s what you’ll need to install them:

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com We decided to put these on the left side of our garage, because we needed this wall to have storage that was more flush (so Evan could still get out of his car).

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com These pegboards are made to work with the normal spacing of normal studs in a normal house. What we found in our garage is that the studs were a little off in some places, and really off in others, so they didn’t count as “normal”. To get around this, we used 1×4’s to bridge between our studs.

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com First, use a stud finder to find your studs.

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com *wink!

And mark them on the wall.

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com We had eight feet worth of panels so we got three eight-foot 1×4’s, and placed them horizontally at three different heights because the panels have attachment points at their top, middle, and bottom.

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com Use a level so your 1×4’s aren’t all kittywampus, and grab a buddy if you can because it helps to have one person holding one end while the other person screws into the other. Screw the pegboards into the boards at their top, middle, and bottom attachment points.

Because the pegboards have built in stand off, screwing them into the boards doesn’t make you lose any usable space like with a traditional pegboard.

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com Because we bridged the studs, we could attach our pegboards to the 1×4’s without having to worry about hitting a stud.

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com Each pegboard panel has six attachment points (three on each side) that you’ll need to screw into your 1×4’s.

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com Then it was just a matter of putting up our tools. There’s something about a fresh pegboard that makes you feel organized and on top of life. DIY garage storage and organization - evanandkatelyn.com

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com STEP 3: New shelving

Shelves were another item that we still wanted, we just had requirements that the old ones didn’t mean. Mainly, we wanted them to be easily adjustable, and able to hold more weight than our old ones.

We ended up finding this rail and bracket system called EverBilt. It’s kinda like what you might find in a closet system: different lengths of rails and brackets that hook into them. Then you just use wood planks as the shelves themselves.

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com We love the idea of this because we want to be able to move shelves around easily if we need a different set up in the future.

To install these, you’ll need:

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com We planned to put all our shelving on the right side of the garage, where we have the stepped up area (because we have a little more space between the wall and the car on that side).

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com Again, the first step to this project is finding and marking your studs. And again, our studs were really wonky. Like… they seemingly disappeared anywhere above five feet in some areas.

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com Meaning we had to go with a different part of the wall on this side of the garage, but it was fine and honestly probably worked out even better in the end because it’s closer to where our worktable ended up.

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com Mark your studs at several different heights and draw a vertical line connecting your marks. You’ll attach the rails vertically along the studs, and you want to make sure you hit the stud with every screw.

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com Screw a rail into each stud. You’ll need at least two rails obviously, but if you need more weight support or if you’re spanning a wider area, you can do more.

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com Then all you need to do is add a bracket onto the rails at each height you want a shelf. They just pop right in, super easy.

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com We used 12 inch deep boards for our shelves, in lengths of 6 feet since that was the widest we could go on this wall. The weight of the boards makes them stay in place pretty solidly on the brackets.

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com The best thing is if we need to adjust the height of a shelf, it’s so easy to bump the brackets up or down and place the board back on top.

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com We used these shelves for things like drawers of safety gear, boxes of extra product and supplies for our pop up shops, and our OCD-embracing screw, nail, and general hardware organizers.

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com We ended up living these so much, we added a couple shelves above our pegboards too using some of the short rail lengths (they come in several lengths). We use these for extra wood that’s too long for our rolly cart and items we don’t need frequent access to.

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com STEP 3: Track system

Next we added a track system to hold the typical long awkward items you have in a garage, like shovels, rakes, etc. We decided this would go on the left wall next to the pegboards (because these tend to be more flush against the wall too). There are a lot of systems to choose from, but we went with the Rubbermaid FastTrack system. Mainly because it’s got a big variety of hooks, was very modular, and had great reviews.

To install this, you’ll need

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com First, you guessed it, find and mark your studs. We used the 1×4 trick again to bridge between them.

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com Then attach the track onto your 1×4. The secondary benefit of using the 1×4 is that it gives a little bit of extra space between the items you’re hanging from the track and your wall, meaning your wall won’t get as dirty or beat up.

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com The cover should slide right over your track.

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com Then clip on your hooks. There are all sorts of different types, depending on what you need to hang.

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com We filled it up pretty fast with brooms, shovels, rakes, trimmers, etc. It can even hold super heavy stuff like our ladder.

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com We love how modular and sturdy this is!

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com STEP 4: Wire rack

After installing our new storage, we turned our eye back to our existing storage. This little wire rack has rested humbly in our corner for years and we actually use it, so it was a keeper. But he was dirty, chipped, and slightly off white. So we gave him a good scrubbing and a coat of white semigloss spray paint.

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com Then we added him on the wall back where he used to be, except this time we screwed him into studs (seriously, it seems like NOTHING in this garage had been attached to studs).

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com STEP 5: Cabinets

Our cabinets, which came with the house, originally started out pretty much the ugliest brown you could ever imagine. So one day we couldn’t take it any more and we painted them with some white paint we just happened to have on hand. What we didn’t think about was that it was flat paint, so it got really dirty really easily. We had some of our paint leftover from painting the walls, which was Behr Ultra Premium Plus off-the-shelf white in a satin sheen, so we decided to try that.

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com Hopefully painting them with extra paint won’t come back to bite us in the butt again, but they definitely look better now and are easier to clean!

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com We also gave the knobs a new coat of paint. They had been painted over so many times that it had built up quite a bit.

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com To get off the old paint and prep them for a new coat, we used this trick. First, screw a knob onto your drill.

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com Then use one hand to control the drill, and the other hand to hold emery cloth around the knob. As the drill spins, the cloth sands the paint off the knob.

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com It’s a little hard to tell in the photo because the old knob color was white and the paint that had gotten on it was white, but it was much smoother!

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com We spray painted them semigloss white to even them out (I know, seems kinda redundant, but it helped give them a more finished look)

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com Then we reattached the knobs and called these cabinets done.

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com STEP 6: Moving stuff into place, DIY dolly shelf, DIY drying racks

The step was kinda like “ok we are basically done, let’s move stuff back, wait let’s DIY a couple things while we’re at it!” So not so much a step we did, more like a series of fortunate distractions as we wrapped this thing up.

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com We moved our Uline back where it used to live to the left of the cabinets and loaded up our big, heavy items.

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com We used to keep extra tile and bricks from the house stacked underneath it, but it was like a breeding ground for cobwebs, dirt, and dead bugs back there because they were so heavy, we could never move them to clean. So we decided to convert an old dolly to a low profile rolling tile storage cart (really, this would work for anything low profile and heavy).

To install this, you’ll need

  • 1/2″ plywood
  • Some extra scrap wood to bring the lower center part level with the ends
  • Screws

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com The dolly has a higher, padded part on either end, and slightly lower wooden parts across the middle. So Evan cut some 1×4’s down to size so that they could sit on top of the wooden parts and make the middle of the dolly level with the ends of the dolly.

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com Then we used some 3/4” thick plywood that was just a little wider and longer than the dolly and secured it on top with four screws. We drilled through the plywood, through the 1×4’s, into the wooden part of the dolly’s frame.

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com We loaded her up with tile and she fit snuggly under our Uline. Now it’s about a billion times easier to move the tile around when we need to. That stuff is HEAVY.

Side note, I looked into it and a dolly like this is only $19. In a lot of cases, that’s cheaper than buying wood + four casters, and it’s already put together for you. So if you’re needing a quick and simple rolling cart, might be worth just getting a dolly and popping some plywood on top!

Next we added our rolling wood cart to the right of the cabinets. We had hoped to put it there, and last minute realized it was about 6 inches too wide (that’s what we get for dreaming big and not measuring). We didn’t get photos of this step, but we cut off some overhanging surface, moved a couple casters, and baaaaarely got it to fit. Woo!

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com The space under the cabinets was begging for our work table, but before rolling it in we took a few to add a little more functionality to it. We use this table for all sorts of projects, including working on our products, which often require time to dry (wet paint, cement that needs to cure, stain that’s soaking in, etc). We used to use the oh so glamorous technique of dismantling cardboard boxes, laying them flat on the floor, and splaying all our drying goodies across those. Which technically worked, but was not space efficient at all.

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com We were liking our shelves from earlier so much, we got more short rails and more brackets to built a drying rack area under our worktable. We attached the rails to the table legs, popped in the brackets, and used planks of particle board (?????) as shelving. I can’t believe we never thought of this before – it is SUCH a better use of space! No more tip toeing around drying products all over the floors!

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com Once our drying rack was loaded up, we rolled the work table under the cabinets and it was literally a perfect fit. I’m kind of in disbelief that this worked. Our Tetris skills of yore were clearly put to good use.

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com Moment of Truth

All of our stuff corralled? Check. Usable work space for projects and products? Check. Space to pull in both of our cars?

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com Check!!!!!!

Y’all. This is for real. And I kinda can’t believe it. Especially when you look back on where this started.

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com We kinda feel like now that our garage is in order, there’s no stopping us. Feel like making a DIY cutting board or a bench? No biggie, our wood is no longer buried under a mountain of disgrace. Need to crank out a new product order? No longer do we have to turn our garage floor into a sea of half-dried items.

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com Expect a (hopefully) higher frequency of projects, new products, and posts now that this space is functional again!

DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com DIY garage storage solutions - evanandkatelyn.com

………………………………………………………………

You can also find us at:

YouTube…………….. https://www.youtube.com/evanandkatelyn
Instagram………….. http://instagram.com/evanandkatelyn @evanandkatelyn
Instructables………. https://www.instructables.com/member/evanandkatelyn/
Facebook………..….. https://www.facebook.com/evanandkatelyn/

………………………………………………………………

Note: This post contains affiliate links. Thank you for supporting us!

0

How to patch and repair drywall

We spend a lot of time in our garage, a LOT, but I always cringe when we have to take photos while we’re working on projects/tutorials/etc. Because until recently, it looked like this:

How to patch and repair walls It may just look like clutter, but it goes deeper than that. We tackled this project in two parts, (part two covers how we tackled organizing it and turning it into a workshop), but right now we are going to focus on the biggest problem we faced: The Walls.

How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com

You can watch the video that covers everything below, or keep scrolling for all our choices, steps, and tips in blog-format.

[Before we keep going, I want to pause and say if you have a second it would mean SO much to us if you’d like our video or subscribe to our channel. Since we’re brand new to YouTube, every view, like, and subscription makes a huge difference for us. Click here to see the whole channel. Thank youuuuu! We’re doing a big goofy happy dance right now!]

Specifically I’m going to cover how to patch holes (tiny ones, medium ones, and big ones), repair your corners (did you know drywall corner tape was a thing?) and paint (we tried oil based paint for the first time and it was not pretty).

1. How to patch holes

This was definitely the biggest part of the project because our walls were in ruh-uh-uff shape. We had hundreds of holes in our walls ranging from the size of a pin to large enough for me to crawl into. So we’ll go over how to fix tiny holes, medium holes, and big holes.

Tiny holes, aka anything smaller than a finger, are the easiest to deal with.

How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com For these you’ll need the following tools/materials:

How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com Start by lightly sanding over the hole with your 150 grit sanding block and wipe off any dust with a paper towel.

How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com Then get a tiny dollop of spackle on your putty knife and press it into the hole. Drag your putty knife across the hole in a few different directions until the spackle is smooth and flush with the wall (this should just take a couple swipes)

How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com The spackle we got goes on pink and dries white, so once it’s dry you can do one more layer (if necessary) or paint.

Medium holes that are bigger than your finger but smaller than 6 inches across can be fixed using a drywall patch.

How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com For these you’ll need the following tools/materials:

How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com First use your poking device to scrape away any loose bits of drywall inside your hole.

How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com Then sand with 150 grit sandpaper and wipe it clean with a paper towel.

How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com Find a patch that goes at least an inch or two past your hole on all sides.

How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com Peel the backing off of your patch and press it over your hole. The patches are a thin metal covered with a mess tape and the whole deal is sticky to adhere to your wall.

How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com Now comes the fun part. Yes, this is fun for us.

Get some joint compound on your putty knife and press it over your patch, starting in the middle and feathering it away, making sure to go at least a couple inches past your patch.

How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com Midway through this, I switched to a more bendy putty knife and it made this WAY easier. I dunno how you’re supposed to feather the edge with a stiff putty knife. Bendy knife fo’ life!

How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com Let this dry overnight and then come back and do a second coat. You’ll basically repeat the steps from before. First sand over any rough parts and wipe it down.

How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com Then apply another coat of joint compound. This time you’ll want to feather the edges a little bit past your original application. So basically, the total area you cover is gonna be WAY bigger than the size of the hole you started with.

How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com Most tutorials online will recommend doing a third coat as well. If this was inside our house or in an area that wasn’t going to be potentially covered with shelves/pegboards/various other storage type stuff, we would do three too. But for our garage, we decided two was just fine.

Big holes, aka anything larger than 6 inches across, require a slightly different technique. They’re too big for a patch like we used before, so you’ll actually need to buy a panel of drywall and patch your hole with that.

How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com For these you’ll need the following tools/materials:

How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com First you need to cut a hole around your hole. Which I know seems counterintuitive, but it’ll make it possible for you to patch it with a piece of the drywall panel you bought.

Our hole was really big, and the panel we bought was 2 ft x 2 ft, so we held up the panel over the hole and traced it, that way we knew it would fit.

How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com If your hole isn’t quite that big, you would do things a little differently. You’d cut a square around your hole, then cut out a piece of your drywall panel that was the same size. You can either measure your square hole and then measure out what you need to cut from the drywall piece, or if the square you cut out is intact you can trace it onto your drywall piece.

That’s probably easier to do than it is to explain in text, so hopefully that wasn’t confusing. End goal: have a square hole in your wall and a square piece of drywall you can pop into said hole.

Once we had the outline of our square, we used a yardstick and utility knife to score along our line. It helps to have one person hold the yardstick and one person cut.

How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com Then we cut through the drywall using our serrated knife.

How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com After it’s cut, you can pull out the drywall chunks so you’re left with  a clean square. Or a a square full of insulation from that one time we blew insulation in our attic.

How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com You’ll have a rough edge around your cut, so sand it with 150 grit sandpaper and wipe off dust with a paper towel.

How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com Now it’s time to attach your piece of drywall as a patch. You need to attach it to something solid. If you have studs behind your hole like we did, you can screw it into those.

How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com If you don’t have studs, you’ll need to grab a piece of 1×4 and attach it inside the hole to the back of the drywall using 1-1/4″ drywall screws. Then, instead of screwing your drywall piece into the studs, you’ll screw it into that.

How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com So we popped our drywall patch into the hole we cut and screwed it into our studs on either side. We did three screws on the left, three on the right.

How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com Then we used the mesh drywall tape to tape around the four edges around the patch. It comes in a roll and is similar to the mesh square over the metal patches we used earlier.

How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com Next, it’s time to bust out your joint compound again. Just like we did with the medium holes, apply joint compound over your tape with a putty knife and feather out the edges with a nice wide bendy putty knife.

How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com Again, we only did two coats of compound because we knew lots of this wall wouldn’t be visible once we got our storage systems up, and because ehhhh it’s just the garage.

Let it dry overnight, then scrape/sand away any rough parts, wipe it down, and repeat with more joint compound, feathering past the edges of your original application.

How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com 2. How to repair drywall corners

Drywall corner tape is used anywhere two planes of drywall meet (so two walls that meet in a corner, or where a wall meets a ceiling). The cheapo-type had been used in our garage and it was peeling in several places.

How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com To fix this, you’ll need the following tools/materials:

How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com First use your utility knife to help peel off your old corner tape. Some areas will just peel off if you grab them, but for some it helped to have the knife to get it started.

How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com Sand and wipe down the length of your corner, on both sides that are joining. Wipe off any dust.

How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com Then spray the spray adhesive from about 6 inches away along the corner. This adhesive is specifically made for drywall. Don’t be alarmed, it comes out red.

How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com It takes a minute or so to become tacky, but you can apply your tape anywhere between 1 and 10 minutes. To apply, cut a length of tape from your roll that’s the same measurement as your corner.

Fold the tape along the crease so that it fits better into your corner.

How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com If one end of the tape is butting up against another corner (like a wall corner butting up against a ceiling corner) snip the ends off at 45 degrees.

How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com Press the corner tape down your corner over your spray adhesive and smooth it as you go. It’s pretty stiff, so getting it smooth isn’t too hard.

How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com After about half an hour, you can apply joint compound. By now, we had gotten pretty good with this stuff. Spread it along the corner joint and feather it away from the corner.

How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com Let it dry overnight, the sand rough spots, wipe it down, and repeat. As usual, with the second coat feather it out past the first application of joint compound.

How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com 3. Painting!

Holy holes batman – at this point, our walls were finally ready to paint!

How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com We used the following tools/materials:

How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com First, we walked around with our 150 grit sanding block and hit any last rough spots. Then we used a huge broom to wipe off the dust and cobwebs from our wall. We had a lot of both,

How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com Our paint does have primer in it, but we had one area in particular that we were a little concerned about that had both water damage and what looked like an explosion of black paint. So this area we primed first with Kilz spray primer just to be safe.

How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com While it dried we started painting other areas of the garage. We used Behr Ultra Premium plus in off the shelf white (in a satin sheen, for easier cleanability).

How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com We first painted large swaths of wall with the paint rollers.

How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com Then we went back and used a small angled brush to get around the edges and into corners that the roller couldn’t get.

How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com Usually, people will edge first and roll second, but I can’t even describe how excited we were to cover those yellowy walls with white so we jumped the gun and rolled first (it’s way faster and more satisfying than edging!)

Side note, if you have to paint over the course of a few days like we did, you can avoid having to wash out your brushes and rollers each night by wrapping them tightly in foil and keeping them in the fridge. Definitely saved us lots of time and mess!

How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com After edging around the door, there was this moment where we looked at the door, looked at each other, and simultaneously decided we gotta paint this door. It was sooooooo yellow looking next to the white walls.

How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com You can see it pretty well in the background of the photo below too. Ick.

How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com Confession – we’ve never used oil based paint before. And our doors/trim had originally been painted with oil based paint, so we went back and forth between covering it with a primer and doing acrylic vs just going over it in oil again. We couldn’t decide, and neither could the internet based on our research. The folks at Home Depot said it would probably be better to use oil paint, so that’s what we did.

We started out dong the trim with our angled brush and we thought hey! This isn’t so bad! Then we tried to do the door and oh lord it was terrible.

How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com Granted, we weren’t prepared. We started out trying to do the door with a roller, but we didn’t have a roller meant for oil based paint (we didn’t even know that was a thing). It left fuzzies everywhere, which we then tried to pick out/wipe off (only semi-successfully). Then we proceeded to paint the whole door with a brush since that’s all we had, but it had already started to dry in some areas due to our fuzzy-picking fiasco, so it was looking all sorts of messed up.

Luckily, it did smooth out a bit as it dried. Eventually we will try doing a second coat, but for now it is what it is – a learning experience haha. It’s at least better now that it’s white instead of yellow!

How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com After the whole door situation, we just had to get one last hard to reach spot. Never saw myself sticking my head under a 400-something lb water heater, but you gotta do what you gotta do.

How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com It was worth it to get that last paint stroke!

How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com Repairing drywall and fixing up the walls ended up being a big undertaking – I don’t think we realized quite how bad of shape they were in until we were already elbows deep in the project. But it was TOTALLY worth it. Our garage started out a yellowed, peeling, and full-of-holes hot mess. And even though at the end of it there are a still a few minor imperfections (cough looking-at-you-door cough), when we look around it is pretty sweet to look around and see smooth, white walls.

How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com So glad to be done! And now onto my favorite part… how we organized the garage!

How to patch and repair drywall - evanandkatelyn.com

………………………………………………………………

You can also find us at:

YouTube…………….. https://www.youtube.com/evanandkatelyn
Instagram………….. http://instagram.com/evanandkatelyn @evanandkatelyn
Instructables………. https://www.instructables.com/member/evanandkatelyn/
Facebook………..….. https://www.facebook.com/evanandkatelyn/

………………………………………………………………

Note: This post contains affiliate links. Thank you for supporting us!

0

IKEA MALM dresser hack

Today we’re going to show you how we used $35-per-dresser worth of hardware to upgraded a couple IKEA Malms that until recently, looked like this:

DIY Dresser Upgrade And now… it looks like this!

You can watch the video that covers everything below, or keep scrolling for all our choices, steps, and tips in blog-format.

[Before we keep going, I want to pause and say if you have a second it would mean SO much to us if you’d like our video or subscribe to our channel. Since we’re brand new to YouTube, every view, like, and subscription makes a huge difference for us. Click here to see the whole channel. Thank youuuuu! We’re doing a big goofy happy dance right now!]

We were inspired by this discontinued West Elm Dresser to do knobs on the top row of drawers and pulls on the rest. If you want to check out the backstory and challenges we faced about hardware and dressers (riveting, I know) before I get to the actual tutorial, click here to read our last post.

West Elm copycat IKEA hack, DIY dresser upgrade using knobs and pulls - evanandkatelyn.com This ended up being a really simple tutorial that you could definitely tackle on a weeknight after work with just a few tools. Below is what we used:

Materials

West Elm copycat IKEA hack, DIY dresser upgrade using knobs and pulls - evanandkatelyn.com Tools

We also ended up needing bolt cutters, a wrench, and a spare nut that fit onto our screw because we ran into a little snag with our screw length (more details on that later).

West Elm copycat IKEA hack, DIY dresser upgrade using knobs and pulls - evanandkatelyn.com The first thing you have to do it make a big mess of your room by emptying all your drawers. Just think of it as an opportunity to get rid of that Panic at the Disco t-shirt that’s been shoved in the back for years.

West Elm copycat IKEA hack, DIY dresser upgrade using knobs and pulls - evanandkatelyn.com Then you’ll need to measure your drawers and mark each spot to drill for your hardware. Double check your measurements because having a bunch of mistake-holes in your dresser is a good way to ruin it.

West Elm copycat IKEA hack, DIY dresser upgrade using knobs and pulls - evanandkatelyn.com For the pulls, we measured the width of the drawer front, then the width between the two holes in each pull. We subtracted the pull-width from the drawer-width and divided that number in two, which told us how far we needed to measure from each side of our drawer. We centered those marks vertically.

West Elm copycat IKEA hack, DIY dresser upgrade using knobs and pulls - evanandkatelyn.com The knobs were easier. We just eyeballed what positioning looked good, made sure they were equally spaced width-wise from the outside edge of the drawer, and centered those vertically too.

West Elm copycat IKEA hack, DIY dresser upgrade using knobs and pulls - evanandkatelyn.com We recommend placing your hardware on each drawer front where you’ve marked before you drill. This gives you a visual check of how you did. When you feel confident that your ability to do simple math has resulted in the correct placement of your hardware, it’s time to get out the drill.

West Elm copycat IKEA hack, DIY dresser upgrade using knobs and pulls - evanandkatelyn.com To pick the right bit size, you can hold your screw up to several different sized bits and pick one that is just a hair thicker than your screw.

West Elm copycat IKEA hack, DIY dresser upgrade using knobs and pulls - evanandkatelyn.com West Elm copycat IKEA hack, DIY dresser upgrade using knobs and pulls - evanandkatelyn.com We really like using a drill guide (that little metal bar we’re drilling through) to help us drill straight down (instead of at an angle). If you’re nervous about drilling through perfectly good furniture, I highly recommend getting one of these little guys.

West Elm copycat IKEA hack, DIY dresser upgrade using knobs and pulls - evanandkatelyn.com After drilling, we did hit a bit of a snag. See, hardware will typically come with screws, and ours came with two different screw size options. But sadly, we had a Goldilocks moment and one was too long and one was too short, but neither was juuuust right.

West Elm copycat IKEA hack, DIY dresser upgrade using knobs and pulls - evanandkatelyn.com This is a common issue to run into, so we’re going to share a little tip (so you can avoid going to Home Depot for the 10th time that day to pick up new screws).

Grab a set of bolt cutters and a nut that’s sized to fit your screw. Thread the nut onto the screw, then cut the too-long screw to  the length you need.

West Elm copycat IKEA hack, DIY dresser upgrade using knobs and pulls - evanandkatelyn.com West Elm copycat IKEA hack, DIY dresser upgrade using knobs and pulls - evanandkatelyn.com West Elm copycat IKEA hack, DIY dresser upgrade using knobs and pulls - evanandkatelyn.com Cutting it will deform the threads slightly, but that’s where the nut comes in. Grab the nut with a wrench and use your screwdriver to back the screw out of the nut. As you rotate it off over the damaged threads, it will re-shape them back to normal and boom, you have a perfectly-sized screw!

West Elm copycat IKEA hack, DIY dresser upgrade using knobs and pulls - evanandkatelyn.com West Elm copycat IKEA hack, DIY dresser upgrade using knobs and pulls - evanandkatelyn.com The next step is to simply attach your hardware with your screws. You can use a normal screwdriver or a powered screwdriver depending on what you have.

West Elm copycat IKEA hack, DIY dresser upgrade using knobs and pulls - evanandkatelyn.com Then just add your drawers (I guess you can put your clothes back now too) and give yourself a high five because you’re done!

West Elm copycat IKEA hack, DIY dresser upgrade using knobs and pulls - evanandkatelyn.com This project really was super easy, and it ended up only costing us $35 per dresser. In my book, that is WAY better than dishing out hundreds (or even thousands!) on something new.

West Elm copycat IKEA hack, DIY dresser upgrade using knobs and pulls - evanandkatelyn.com Before…

DIY Dresser Upgrade After!

………………………………………………………………

You can also find us at:

YouTube…………….. https://www.youtube.com/evanandkatelyn
Instagram………….. http://instagram.com/evanandkatelyn @evanandkatelyn
Instructables………. https://www.instructables.com/member/evanandkatelyn/
Facebook………..….. https://www.facebook.com/evanandkatelyn/

………………………………………………………………

Note: This post contains affiliate links. Thank you for supporting us!

 

0